It’s Halloween, Day of the Dead, and (tomorrow) Día de los Muertos. All over Mexico (and even many other parts of the world), Catrinas (those delightful white skull faces, often elaborately colored and bejeweled) appear, the candy baskets are filled, costumes are worn. In so many ways Halloween is my favorite holiday.
And what better way to celebrate the spookiness than with a blog post about one of Halloween’s typical creatures: Bats.
Specifically, the Bat Tornado, or in Spanish, El Volcán de los Murciélagos (Volcano of the Bats): It’s a cave in Campeche that houses over three million bats, a variety of species, and they come out each evening in spectacular fashion that’s well worth visiting if you’re in the area. The sight of these animals swirling in a giant vortex is incredible. And if you do plan to visit, here are some key things to keep in mind.
But first, let me say that it’s always struck me as comical that this vortex is called a “volcano.” To me, that implies lava, and I guess you could say the bats “erupt” out of the cave, but I promise if you visit you’ll agree with me that it’s vastly more similar to a tornado than a volcano. You be the judge.
Finding it is a bit tricky, as it’s a relatively unmarked pull off on the north side of the road, close to the 106km on Route 186. If you’re heading west, this will be on the right. If you’re coming back east after Calakmul, look on the left. Signage changes, but there may be a sign at the parking lot. (The cute “bat crossing” signs that used to indicate you’d reached the area have been removed.) The parking lot has room for up to about 10 vehicles.
I also want to say that after my most recent visit there, in summer 2024, I was overjoyed to see that the vast changes in Yucatán caused by the Maya Train project, while uprooting or outright destroying so many precious elements that made this region so unique and special, had not — at least not yet — affected the bat cave. I am sure that increased tourism will bring its usual problems, so please be mindful of the following while you’re there:
1. Pay attention to the rules and regulations.
Tourism does not have to be destructive. Be mindful of the rules, respect the guides, and do not go into the forest without a guide. Once you’re at the edge of the dry cenote that forms the mouth of the cave, speak in hushed tones so as not to intrude.
2. Be patient.
It takes a good forty-five minutes for the “tornado” to start fully going. While you wait, you may see owls, raptors, and other birds as well as insects or animals.
3. Do not bring or leave trash.
Do not eat snacks, as the food, crumbs, and trash will affect the area. If you have to eat something, eat it in your car before venturing into the forest. If you bring water, make sure the bottle doesn’t get left or roll down the cliff into the bat cave.
4. Bring plenty of insect repellent, and maybe a mask.
It kind of makes sense that in a place where more than three million bats can find food every night, there are going to be lots of biting bugs. People often underestimate how tasty tourists are as they wait, often motionless, for up to an hour. And long before you see the bats, you’ll be able to smell them: the guano is pretty pungent, and once they start flying the air moment carries it upward. If you have an ole N95 laying around, consider putting it to good use here.
5. Arrive at least 30 minutes before sunset.
Only a limited number of people are allowed to view at a given time, and it’s first come, first served. If you want to have the best chance of seeing bats, be in the first group. Arrive early, at least 30 minutes before sunset, to have the best viewing.
6. Insider tip: Sundays are (currently) best.
Because people often combine a visit to the bat cave with a trip to Calakmul the following day, overnighting in Xpujil, Rio Bec Dreams, or one of the in-Calakmul options, the fewest people are on the nights before Calakmul is closed.
7. Set your camera ISO as high as possible.
You’ll find that the dense forest canopy and the low light make taking good photos challenging, especially if you’re using an older model cellphone. If your settings allow, opt for a high ISO value so that you’ll get the brightest images possible, with little blurring. Switch between video and still photos for added versatility.
8. Be sure to tip your guide.
Tipping is not required in Mexico, but it is very much appreciated and a tip of MX$100-200 (USD$5-10) goes a long way, helping these guides view the cave and its bats as worthy of protection. As the Maya Train brings more tourism (with inevitable numbers of people who don’t travel mindfully), it becomes even more important to reward guides for not just helping you experience one of nature’s wonders, but protecting it so that it’s there for others to enjoy as well. The fee that is collected at the beginning of the walk may not go to the guide at all, but to the government. So be sure to tip before you leave.
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