Sweating naked amid a roomful of strangers is not everyone’s cup of tea, but this curious custom is gaining popularity for its purification and calming, and I was lucky enough to experience several while staying at the Adler Spa Resort DOLOMITI and their sister location in Sicily, the Adler Spa Resort SICILIA. These two beautiful spa resorts are luxurious enough, but as the original Adler Hotel is located in South Tyrol, this family-owned chain keeps Tyrolean traditions alive throughout their locations in Italy. So while the Aufguss is considered a custom of German-speaking countries, it’s possible to enjoy this in Italy (and many other places) as well.
What is the Aufguss?
The word means “infusion,” and that’s perhaps due to the fact that the ice used in the ceremony is scented (or…infused!) with fragrant oils. Unlike traditional saunas, in an Aufguss the water (or ice balls) aren’t plopped onto the hot stones by the participants, but instead, the ritual is presided over by a “Aufguss Meister,” (Master) who controls the music, chooses the scents that the ice will contain (such as lavender, citrus, eucalyptus, mint, and so on), and artfully dances around while fanning the audience with a towel so as to ensure that all participants get hit with the scents and humid, super-heated air.
The key is super-heated: Being in one of these feels like you’re in a blast furnace. And after just a few minutes, you’ll be sweating so profusely that one of the Aufguss rules is to bring a towel — not to cover yourself, no, but to sit on so that your sweat doesn’t soak into the wood.
Those wanting to enjoy (or experience, since there’s certainly a bit of masochism involved) this custom need to arrive a few minutes prior to the start, because as the Aufguss Meister enters, he closes the door and it’s gauche to open it again (as that spoils the heat). Everyone is naked, and for North Americans the concept of chit-chatting merrily while being squished thigh-to-thigh with buck naked strangers may seem shocking, once the performance begins you just are too hot to worry about how your body looks.
The door closes, there’s a meditative pause while the Aufguss Meister turns on the music and puts the first of several ice balls on the stones.
And if you thought it was hot before, the moment that ice ball cracks open, sizzling like grease on a hot skillet, you realize that the heat hadn’t even begun.
Wave after wave hits you, fanned around by the dance-like moves of the Aufguss Meister, each one feeling hotter than the last. To the tune of Enya, or Van Halen, or Mozart, (again, it’s all chosen by the Master), you endure heat and humidity the likes of which you’ve never seen.
(Unless you’ve been in an Aufguss previously, that is.)
Your body pours sweat in a desperate, futile attempt to cool you down. Your eyes can’t see from the buckets pouring down your forehead. The scent changes and another ice ball cracks and evaporates, its moisture again thickening the already super-heated air. By the time the third or fourth ice ball is done you wonder if you’ll be able to make it to the end. (And some people don’t; While it’s frowned upon to open the door after the ritual has begun, it’s fine to leave early if you’re feeling overwhelmed.)
In my case, being generally good with heat (I’ve hiked in Death Valley in 100°F temps, for example), I knew I could make it, but I was very glad when the music stopped, the door opened, and a rush of cold air hit me. I picked up my towel and went out, feeling a bit dizzy, and air-dried a bit before putting on my clothes. Others (the real Aufguss addicts) finish up with either a dip in a cold water plunge pool or by (if there’s no pool) splashing themselves with icy water from a cistern. I found the closest I could come was to douse my feet a bit, repressing a scream that would have probably woken up the dead.
Here’s the thing though: I liked it.
A lot.
I like it so much that I became a regular, going back daily, and once twice in a row, for this ceremony. It makes you feel refreshed, relaxed, tranquil, and I even made friends. It felt great to be experiencing a tradition that’s gone back centuries, something regional and unique.
Though that may be changing. Aufguss is popping up not just in Italy, but all over the world. New York, Minneapolis, and even Las Vegas all have hotels that offer Aufguss, and that number is only going to rise as more North Americans catch on. I can’t attest to the health benefits, but some believe that this ritual is life extending. Whether it is or isn’t, it’s certainly unique, relaxing, and fun, and I’ll be enjoying it fully the next time I’m at an Adler resort or some other spot that features it.
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