Getting a media stay at a hotel overnight or a weekend is one thing, but what about a whole week to explore a region so many visitors to Japan never get to see? Priceless. I couldn’t have been luckier to work with the Tanabe tourism board to uncover its secrets and surprises.
1. Its wonderful onsen (hot spring) baths.
I don’t know if it’s possible to say that a particular area has “the best onsens in Japan” but certainly the Tanabe, Wakayama region is among the best. In part it’s the diversity, whether you choose a seaside onsen town like Shirahama, with its delightful public baths and the gorgeous coastline, or the hidden mountain villages where the shogūn himself came to soak away the stress. It’s a marvelous, off-the-beaten-path spot to visit. No clothes needed, just bring a towel and prepare to relax like a king.
2. Its gorgeous temples.
This area was the spot of both Buddhist and Shinto religions, and monks would regularly travel the “Kumano Kōdō” (pilgrimage trail) from hundreds of miles away, ending their journey at these Tanabe temples. I got to walk parts of these ancient roads myself while I was there, and the city has done a great job of making these trails accessible to foreigners.
3. Its fascinating festivals.
Of the many religious festivals this region has, perhaps the most spectacular is the Nachi Fire Festival, held each year on the 14th of July at Nachi Taisha Shrine. It’s a stunning sight: Giant flaming torches made of bamboo are carried up and down the steps between the shrine and its gorgeous waterfall, each torch-bearer controls the flames by spraying them with water in his mouth.
4. Its delightful traditions.
The region has plenty of religious traditions, but there are secular traditions worth mentioning as well, such as the gorgeous “Koi no bori” (Boy’s Day) tradition that festoons poles and wires with beautiful carp kites. Or the craft of charcoal making, done the same way here for centuries.
5. Its incredible food.
Every night I was treated to some of Japan’s finest kaiseki ryōri, course after course after course. Meals featured local river fish (ayu), tofu dishes, meat, and shellfish, all as fresh and as artfully prepared as could be.
My only complaint about Tanabe was that a week just didn’t seem long enough. Hopefully I’ll be back there again soon.
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